The little wrench sign was lit up on Henry’s dashboard so I asked the Twitterverse if anyone knew of a good deal on oil changes. My buddy Danny DM’d saying he was going to get his girlfriend’s Honda serviced and could do mine at the same time. I thought he knew a guy with a shop, but it turns out Danny is that guy with a shop! Haha
Henry and I went to Wing Lee Auto Collision on Clark Drive this morning and I got to learn how to change Henry’s oil, filter and even rotate his tires! Knowing how to do everything yourself is a hundred times cooler than being that chick in the waiting room reading a magazine while someone else does everything and then hands you a bill with items you don’t question because you have no clue what anything is. Was it dirty? Yes. Was it worth it? Abso-eff’in-lutely. Anything where I get to learn new stuff, wear coveralls, and get filthy is uber-awesome in my books!
Here are a few things I learned today and pictures to prove I changed Henry’s oil, filter and rotated his tires.
Tips for Car Owners
- When a car has been wrecked to the point where it needs a complete overhaul, the car is placed on a large platform and clamped on while it’s being repaired. So, if you’re ever in the market for a used car, look for bite marks behind the front wheels and in front of the back wheels where these clamps would be placed to see if it’s undergone some work the seller hasn’t told you about.
- Hub caps are different from rims. I have hub caps. They’re the cheap plastic caps that come with the car and are literally punched into place (I did that today
). Rims are those fancy metal plates that people pay extra for. - When mechanics refer to a “thread”, they’re talking about the spiral around a screw. Never force a screw into place — especially if it’s the one connected to your engine oil tank. If you grind down the thread on the tank, you’re screwed; you’ll have to replace the entire tank which will cost you several thousand pretty pennies.
- New car oil looks like liquid honey. Used oil looks like tar and smells like a car shop.
- The cap on the oil tank under the hood probably has a few numbers and letters on it that specify what type of oil you want to use (denoted by the “W” which tells the mechanic how thick or thin the oil should be). The thickness / thinness of the oil you use will also depend on the climate in which you drive you car, so the oil you use may change if you move to a colder / warmer province / state.
- If you drove for a while before getting to the shop, let the oil and tank cool down before you uncap the tank.
- When you uncap the oil tank, the container for your used oil shouldn’t be directly beneath it. It should be about half a foot further back because the oil doesn’t just drip out — it spills out like a fountain. I’m glad I was off to the side of the opening when I did this! I was surprised at its fountain-like nature though, so I dropped the screw in the oil bucket.
- Never overfill your oil tank. If you do, the oil may travel to another part of your system (I don’t remember the name of it — it’s the part that looks like a giant can with holes in it; little guys who want louder cars remove this part to try and look cool).
- For your safety when using manual jacks, you should have those concrete triangular blocks underneath the bar that runs between your two front tires when you go underneath the car. These blocks prevent your car from coming down on you if the jacks give in.
- Servicing your own car is actually pretty easy. When you pay an arm and a leg for it, it’s because the oil and filter aren’t cheap, or the mechanic hates doing it, or a combination of the two. If you’re getting a “deal” under $60 for an oil and filter change, it’s because you’re getting a cheap filter and bulk oil. The cost of buying the oil and filter I got for Henry today at regular consumer prices would’ve been over $60 (no service included).
- A “pneumatic” system is something that uses compressed air (like the hand tools that you use to screw the tires back on).
Thanks Danny!














